Reshaping a Ninja 250 seat - the storyPosted July 12, 2004 You may also be interested in the how-to on reshaping your seat. The Kawasaki Ninja 250 (aka EX250) comes with a very oddly shaped seat, designed for no one in particular. I rode mine with the stock seat for about a year, and found it to be comfortable enough for daily commuting work, but awful when riding for more than about an hour. In particular I took a ride with some other Ninja 250 riders, and by the end of that, my butt was in awful pain. I resolved to do something to fix it. The Plan I had seen how a Rich's custom seat is made, so I had a good idea how to go about the process myself. That's where I figured out what kind of foam to use, what shape to make, roughly the order of events, etc. Procuring the PiecesI found the seat on Ebay, for about $40 shipped. I located the foam at a local foam shop for $25 (enough for two tries), and the headliner and vinyl at a local auto upholstery shop for a total of about $30. I also got foam adhesive at the foam shop, for about $10 (although I ended up needing a total of 2.25 cans -- see below). Specifically, I got "5lb rebond" as the main seat foam: this stuff is formulated out of scraps of other foam, and is much stiffer than most commercially available "pure" foam. If you're reading this article with an eye toward doing it yourself, make sure you get rebond foam. It turns out Rich's uses 4lb rebond, and indeed, I think I would have preferred that for my main seat foam, as it's a bit softer while still being stiff enough. The ProcessThe way I did it is like this, in concept. Of course in reality it's more complex, but these are the basic steps:
And Then Reality Intervened I dropped into Rich's to ask his advice, and basically he said, "you're on the right track, now finish the shape with a small grinding wheel." He said a lot more than that, because Rich is a talker, but that was the gist of the seat advice. I got a set of 3" griding wheels from Sears, and suddenly things were going well again. Using the grinding wheel allowed me to make the smooth, flowing shapes I wanted, and get the really concave shapes that were impossible with the knife. It took some getting used to, but I was able to progress from a shoddy-looking, scrappy seat to a smooth one in just a few days of after-the-workday work. The final challenge that I hadn't anticipated was that getting the final shape right took a lot more futzing than I had expected. I spent at least a month, maybe two, of occasional work with the grinding wheel trying to get the final shape right. In the intervening time, I'd re-applied foam twice so I wouldn't be working on the old, troublesome shape. I ran entirely through 1.25 cans of adhesive (the first can I bought was a quarter-full can that the guy at the foam shop sold to me for $4) in getting the shape right, and had to go buy a third can to finish up. How to Make Progress: Get Frustrated The final product wasn't perfect, with slight bagginess on the sides, but it was pretty good. I now have a seat which is much more butt-shaped, and thus more comfortable. The seating position is at least 4 inches further back than the stock seat, and at least 2 inches higher. This makes my legs more comfortable, but means that my arms are stretched a bit too far, and throws off the balance of the bike a little bit. It's still a huge change from the banana-seat supplied with the bike. Final Product: Good, Took Forever I'm actually thinking about doing it all again, and moving the seating position further forward while keeping all the height (possibly adding even more). I also have a much better idea what I'm doing now, and think I could make a nicer looking seat in much less time. Created by Ian Johnston. Questions? Please mail me at reaper at obairlann dot net. |